I’m technically back on the tectonic plate and in a satellite
of a “western” country, but I feel especially disconnected from home and
involved with my project. I’m sad to know I have only two months left but I am
also excited at the thought of returning home in the near future!!!
I have returned to Qaarsut, a settlement of about 180 in Greenland,
where an extended family of 30 welcomed me into their small community last
summer and told me to come back for the ice. Almost every day we’ve gone out. Jigging,
netting, longlining through holes or cracks in the ice for personal
consumption, seal hunting, ptarmigan hunting, watching huge
dogsled races on the sea ice, and playing in the local inter-community indoor
soccer tournament in Uummannaq!
People have dogs and dog sled, but not as much as I
expected, as they have snowmobiles also, which are much easier. It is kind of a
shame, but I think other communities are better off with regard to being able to use their dogs. This is the first year of
good ice in the past decade, so many people have shot their dogs and all have gotten out of the habit of
sledding. Also, snowmobiles are faster! But, life here is still very slow and relaxed, at least for now while the fish factory is closed and the quotas have been met.
Today I made American pancakes for the family I’m living
with. And I am trying to make plans to join a multi-day seal hunt/camping trip on the ice, and
also to go to Ulukhaktok, Northwest Territories, Canada, for the last month of
my year!
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